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Posted by jnord 20 hours ago

Data centers are transitioning from AC to DC(spectrum.ieee.org)
261 points | 314 commentspage 2
BorisMelnik 4 hours ago|
its really wild at all the AC to DC changes. for those non electric engineers / hardware hackers (like myself) one of the biggest "examples" I've seen of this has been ceiling fans.

Installing a ceiling fan used to be treacherous and so heavy. Also loud and buzzy after installed. Now the fans in these things are so lightweight and easy.

seeing the same in many more areas (lighting, etc)

hamdingers 3 hours ago|
Would love to see more mainstream DC lighting options and an updated code to match. I just finished a remodel of my workshop and blew over a hundred bucks on 14/2 for a 15 amp lighting circuit that is unlikely to ever see more than a 1 amps load.

The irony is all the recessed lights I picked out are DC, they all have little AC-DC boxes hanging off them using a proprietary connector. If I hadn't needed to pass a rough-in inspection going all DC would've been trivial.

KnuthIsGod 18 hours ago||
Waiting for home DC.

It is silly to have AC to DC converters in all of my wall connected electronics ( LED bulbs, home controller, computer equipment etc )

jacquesm 18 hours ago||
Not going to happen. For the same reason that the US never converted to a higher domestic voltage even though there are many practical advantages. The transition from one system to another at the consumer level would be terrible, even if there would be some advantage (and I'm not sure the one you list is even valid, you'd get DC-DC converters instead because your consumers typically use a lower voltage than the house distribution network powering your sockets) it would be offset by the cost of maintaining two systems side by side for decades.

You could wire your house for 12, 24 or 48V DC tomorrow and some off-grid dwellers have done just that. But since inverters have become cheap enough such installations are becoming more and more rare. The only place where you still see that is in cars, trucks and vessels.

And if you thought cooking water in a camper on an inverter is tricky wait until you start running things like washing machines and other large appliances off low voltage DC. You'll be using massive cables the cost of which will outweigh any savings.

throw0101c 10 hours ago|||
> Not going to happen. For the same reason that the US never converted to a higher domestic voltage even though there are many practical advantages.

It would be relatively easy for the US to go to 240V: swap out single-pole breakers for double-pole, and change your NEMA 5 plugs for NEMA 6.

For a transition period you could easily have 240V and 120V plugs right next to each other (because of split phase you can 'splice in' 120V easily: just run cable like you would for a NEMA 14 plug: L1/L2/N/G).

What would be the real challenge would be going from 50 to 60Hz.

rkomorn 10 hours ago||
> What would be the real challenge would be going from 50 to 60Hz.

Other way around, no? The US is already 60Hz.

Edit: I mostly remember this because the SNES games I used to buy in the US and brought back to Europe ran noticeably slower.

manwe150 17 hours ago||||
I suppose that still begs the question somewhat, since the US does have 240V (2 phase) already driving many appliances. Why hasn’t it ever become standard for luxury kitchens to have a European-style outlet for use with a European kettle? I know the US already has a different 240V plug shape, so it might have to be an unlicensed installation, but surely someone wanted hot tea faster and did that calculus before?
jcalvinowens 17 hours ago|||
I wired a UK kettle to an unused 240V range outlet in the US once. It was amazing, boiled a liter of water in just under a minute. Obviously kinda sketchy.
zahlman 48 minutes ago|||
"Wired"?

...There was some kind of switch involved, I hope?

jacquesm 16 hours ago|||
That's more like it :)
jacquesm 17 hours ago||||
Well, as you say, it would not be according to code and the insurance company might have something to say about it. It's also single phase but not quite the way you do it in the USA, it would be a neutral and a phase whereas in the USA I think it is 2x110. Finally, it's 50 Hz rather than 60 which would work fine for resistive loads but not so well for inductive ones such as transformers and motors.

In all likely not worth the trouble. When I moved to Canada I gave away most of my power tools for that reason and when I moved back I had to do that all over again.

aidenn0 16 hours ago|||
> In all likely not worth the trouble. When I moved to Canada I gave away most of my power tools for that reason and when I moved back I had to do that all over again.

If you ever have to do it again, you can probably get a transformer rated high enough for power-tools for cheaper than replacing all of your power tools.

mauvehaus 6 hours ago|||
The line frequency tends to screw with things with motors too. Moved from the US to Belgium back when compact cassette was a common format for music.

Killed a few tapes with a transformer on a US tape deck before buying a 220V 50Hz unit. No, I don’t remember if the pitch was grossly off, but I’m guessing it wasn’t.

jacquesm 8 hours ago|||
Of course you can. That's kind of obvious. It is also highly impractical. Besides the frequency delta you end up having to lug a heavy transformer along and then you have to alternate it across your tools so you don't end up frying the transformer.
xoxxala 7 hours ago||||
Technology Connections did this with an EV battery charger:

https://youtu.be/INZybkX8tLI

ianburrell 17 hours ago||||
You can run 240V circuit to kitchen for kettle and put in NEMA 6 outlet. But few people care about fast boil and importing European kettle. Most people use the microwave or stovetop, and 120V kettles are fine in most cases. It will never become a standard thing.
fc417fc802 13 hours ago||||
Ahckhually US residential is split single phase, not two phase. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-phase_electric_power

I think the answer to your question is that it mostly doesn't matter for personal mug size quantities of hot water and if it does matter to you there are readily available competing options such as dedicated taps for your kitchen sink.

Perhaps the biggest reason is that a traditional kettle on any half decent electric range will match if not exceed the power output of any imported electric kettle. Many even go well beyond that with one burner marked "quick boil" or similar.

lostlogin 3 hours ago||
I use an induction stove on maximum to boil water as I get irritated at the time it takes to boil water with 240v.

I’m surprised that American exceptionalism can tolerate half powered sockets.

vessenes 15 hours ago||||
Most important comment here!! I would love to buy like a 6kw battery induction kettle for the states. As far as I can tell, they don’t exist.
bregma 10 hours ago||||
> but surely someone wanted hot tea faster

No one in the USA drinks hat tea. The choices (and it tends to be regionally-based) is sweet or unsweet tea. No need to boil a kettle quickly for that.

zahlman 46 minutes ago|||
> The choices (and it tends to be regionally-based) is sweet or unsweet tea.

... Unless you're buying it pre-made, does this not still start with making hot tea the regular way? Or what exactly are you doing with the tea bags and loose tea from the supermarket?

mauvehaus 6 hours ago||||
> No one in the USA drinks h[o]t tea.

There are dozens of us.

Perplexingly I was traveling in one of the iced tea regions of the country in need of a cup of hot tea, and they had no way to make it. Like, you have a commercial coffee maker and hot cups, the coffee maker has a hot(ish) water tap. All you need is a $4 box of teabags that’ll last until the heat death of the universe. Nope.

vel0city 5 hours ago||||
As a counter argument, things like pour over coffee is getting to be more popular in the US and older drip coffee makers seem to be getting slightly less popular.

Still though, I don't seem to see most of those people seriously clamoring for the electric kettle to go a bit faster. The cost for the wiring difference and dealing with odd imported kettles just isn't worth it generally.

margalabargala 6 hours ago|||
What? Plenty of people in the US drink hot tea.
tbrownaw 17 hours ago|||
> I know the US already has a different 240V plug shape, so it might have to be an unlicensed installation, but surely someone wanted hot tea faster and did that calculus before?

How expensive would a proper AC->DC->AC brick for that power level be?

jacquesm 16 hours ago||
Not so simple, you'd have to use a 'drier' or 'welder' socket for that otherwise you won't have enough power. A single circuit in Europe is 240V 16A or 3840W!

A pure sinewave inverter for that kind of power is maybe 600 to 1000 bucks or so, then you'd still need the other side and maybe a smallish battery in the middle t stabilize the whole thing. Or you could use one of those single phase inverters they use for motors.

SoftTalker 15 hours ago||||
I'm not sure it's likely, but I could see DC lighting start to happen in new construction. Have a single AC-to-DC converter off the main service entrance that powers hard-wired LED lighting fixtures in the house. Would probably be better than running the individual (and usually very low quality) converters in dozens of standard LED light bulbs. Would need to be standardized, codified, etc. so probably not happening soon.
ansgri 8 hours ago||
Would be more practical to have a single 50-300W AC-DC 24V PSU per room or group of rooms, then pull relatively short DC cables to each light. A multichannel light controller could also be placed nearby, and then if you need fully-featured brightness and color control, only a small PWM amplifier could be placed at each light if distance from controller to each light is too long to transmit PWM power directly.
zahlman 49 minutes ago||||
... or we could have both sets of wiring, and use what's appropriate for the task/appliance?
wincy 15 hours ago|||
I just wish I could run my air conditioner and my desktop computer at the same time without flipping the breaker. The RTX 5090 is a space heater and will easily peg at the 600W it’s rated for, and so with that and an air conditioner window unit, I have to run a long cable from another unused room if I want to do anything that stresses the video card.
zahlman 19 minutes ago|||
If you're running an air conditioner and a "space heater" at the same time it might be worth reconsidering your priorities.

I can watch 1080p video on YouTube and it runs in an up-to-date web browser using less than 50% CPU on 12-year-old hardware with 8GB of RAM and a graphics card that was a budget option at the time (my searches indicate it draws at most 80W, though it expects a 500W PSU for some reason).

jacquesm 10 hours ago|||
You can use nvidia-smi to reduce the powerdraw of the card to just below what will trip the breaker.
scarecrowbob 17 hours ago|||
Well, having spent some time operating a 12VDC system last year when I moved into some shacks, I will say that I find it a lot more convenient to run 120VAC.

I end up converting stuff anyhow, because all my loads run at different voltages- even though I had my lights, vent fan, and heater fans running on 12V I still ended up having to change voltages for most of the loads I wanted to run, or generate a AC to to charge my computer and run a rice cooker.

Not to mention that running anything that draws any real power quickly needs a much thicker wire at 12V. So you're either needing to run higher voltage DC than all your loads for distribution and then lowering the voltage when it gets to the device, or you simply can't draw much power.

Not that you can't have higher voltage DC; with my newer system the line from my solar panels to my charger controller is around 350VDC and I can use 10awg for that... but none of the loads I own that draw much power (saws, instapot, rice cooker, hammond organ, tube guitar amp) take DC :D

mauvehaus 6 hours ago|||
Do you have a website with your system on it? I have an off-grid building I need to add solar to in the next year or so. After I fix the foundation and roof, of course. Naturally I’m exploring options for item 387 on the todo list instead of think about how I’m going to jack the building up.
scarecrowbob 4 hours ago||
It's a pretty simple system:

4KW of panels, 400W 48V EG4 6000XP charge controller/ inverter 3x EG4 LifePower4 48V batteries a raspberry pi running solar assistant

I feels like a bit overkill, and there is still a whole mppt unused on the 6000xp so I could still double my panel input. Also solar assistant tells me that I rarly go below 75% battery storage. If I just wanted to run my fridge and assorted convenience loads (and ran things like table saws off a generator) then I could get away with a lot less of a system.

But I'm operating a recording studio, and there were a couple days this winter where I had a full-band session and a couple days of storms and got down to below 50%.

jazzyjackson 17 hours ago|||
Catch me wiring my house with 20V USBC ;)
ternus 18 hours ago|||
The lesser-known instance of this is RV power. When you're running off small batteries and solar, you want to make the best use of the watt-hours you have, and that means avoiding the DC-to-AC-to-DC loop wherever possible. So you run 12V (or in newer models, higher voltage) versions of everything, upconverting as necessary.
amluto 16 hours ago||
I am really skeptical that 12VDC power distribution in RVs actually saves power compared to a high-quality (hah!) higher voltage AC or DC system. 12V is absurdly low and you can’t easily lose quite a few percent in resistive losses even with fairly large cables, and those large cables are quite unpleasant to work with and rather dangerous.
saltyoldman 15 hours ago||
I tried using a microwave off the RV batteries, your inverter needs 4/0 cable. Very "fun".
gwbas1c 7 hours ago|||
Assuming you live in a "large" western home, it's impractical. Remember, Edison's first power grid operated at 110/220v DC to the home. If there was lower voltage (IE, 12 volts) going from the street to your walls, the line loss would be significant. It only works in RVs and shacks because the wires are short.

Thus, even if you had DC in the walls, it would be 100+ volts, and you'd still have conversion down to the lower voltages that electronics use. If you look at the comments in this thread from people who work in telco, they talk about how voltage enters equipment at -48V and is then further lowered.

hahn-kev 17 hours ago|||
It's called USB power delivery
est 17 hours ago||
home appliances have lower voltage, like 12V or 5V. The wire loss and heat would be a problem.
notorandit 6 hours ago||
It does make a whole lot is sense. The amount of energy you loose to convert AC to DC can be humongous . And useless if you produce your own power (normally already in DC).
b00ty4breakfast 17 hours ago||
They're still converting from AC to DC at the datacenter, it just isn't being stepped down at the perimeter. There is no transmission of HVDC going on. This isn't really Edison's revenge, more like his consolation price, ha!
amluto 16 hours ago||
I wonder how much of the benefit is simpler redundant power equipment. For AC, you have standby UPSes and line-interactive UPSes and frequency and phase synchronization. And everything needs a bit more hold-up time because, in case of failure, your new power supply might be at a zero crossing.

For 800V DC, a simple UPS could interface with the main supply using just a pair of (large) diodes, and a more complex and more efficient one could use some fancy solid state switches, but there’s no need for anything as complex as a line-interactive AC UPS.

umvi 19 hours ago||
I don't understand why new houses don't just have one high quality AC/DC converter so you can just use LED lighting without every bulb needing its own AC/DC converter. I imagine the light bulb cartel wouldn't really like that.
Majromax 18 hours ago||
With modern technologies, that's power over ethernet or USB-C. Other comments in this thread point out that the telephone service also routinely used 48V for the ring signal.

However, higher DC voltage is riskier, and it's not at all standard for electrical and building code reasons. In particular, breaking DC circuits is more difficult because there's no zero-crossing point to naturally extinguish an arc, and 170V (US/120VAC) or 340V (Europe/240VAC) is enough to start a substantial arc under the right circumstances.

Unfortunately for your lighting, it's also both simple and efficient to stack enough LEDs together such that their forward voltage drop is approximately the rectified peak (i.e. targeting that 170/340V peak). That means that the bulb needs only one serial string of LEDs without parallel balancing, making the rest of the circuitry (including voltage regulation, which would still be necessary in DC world) simpler.

throw0101d 18 hours ago|||
> I don't understand why new houses don't just have one high quality AC/DC converter so you can just use LED lighting without every bulb needing its own AC/DC converter.

IEEE 802.3bt can deliver up to 71W at the destination: just pull Cat 5/6 everywhere.

* https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet#Standard_i...

* https://www.usailighting.com/poe-lighting

elcritch 12 hours ago||
And pay $60 per Ethernet POE+ light bulb.
throw0101d 6 hours ago||
> And pay $60 per Ethernet POE+ light bulb.

In the commercial/industrial space this may be worth it: how long do these bulbs last? how much (per hour (equivalent)) do you pay your facilities folks? how much time does it take for employees or tenants to report an outage and for your folks to get a ladder (or scissor lift) to change the bulb?

amluto 16 hours ago|||
Every decent LED would then need … a switching power supply. LEDs are current-driven devices, and you get the best efficiency if you use an actual current-controlled supply. And those ICs are very, very cheap now.

The part that would genuinely be cheaper is avoiding problematic flicker. It takes a reasonably high quality LED driver to avoid 120Hz flicker, but a DC-supplied driver could be simpler and cheaper.

gizmo686 18 hours ago|||
LED light bulbs exist exclusively for compatibility with Edison sockets. Every LED fixture I have seen had a single transformer for the entire fixture; and that transformer was reasonably separate from the LEDs themselves.
ianburrell 16 hours ago|||
What voltage do you use? Most DC stuff wants low voltage (5-48V), but appliances need higher voltage like AC-level to get enough power over existing wiring. The result is DC-DC converters every place that have transformers now.

The gain from DC-DC converters is small and DC devices are small part of usage compared appliances. There is no way will pay back costs of replacing all the appliances.

bluGill 18 hours ago|||
It wouldn't work. leds need low voltages, meaning massive wires. you can run the voltage change on ac or dc. Ac just needs a few capacters to smooth the wave out.
fortran77 18 hours ago|||
Do you want your house to burn down? Lower voltages for LED lights mean higher current.
bigiain 18 hours ago||
That's traded off against the increase efficiency of LED lighting, at least compared to incandescent lighting. An LED "equivalent replacement" for a typical incandescent globe is down around 1/10th of the power. A 7Watt LED bulb is typically marketed as "60W equivalent". If that configured as a bunch of LEDs in series (or series/parallel) that need 12VDC, it's right about the same current draw as the 120V 60W incandescent equivalent. (Or perhaps double the current for those of us who get 220VAC out of our walls.)

(Am I just showing my age here? How many of you have ever bought incandescent globes for house lighting? I vaguely recall it may be illegal to sell them here in .au these days. I really like quartz halogen globes, and use them in 4 or 5 desk lamps I have, but these days I need to get globes for em out of China instead of being able to pick them up from the supermarket like I could 10 or 20 years ago.)

fragmede 18 hours ago||
because shorts and voltage loss are a real issue at that scale.
adrr 18 hours ago||
Our houses should be DC. So wasteful to have all these bricks to change to AC to DC.
bigiain 18 hours ago||
Sure, maybe?

If your house gets 800V DC you're still gonna need "bricks" to convert that to 5VDC of 12VDC (or maybe 19VDC) that most of the things that currently have "bricks" need.

And if your house gets lower voltage DC, you're gonna have the problem of worth-stealing sized wiring to run your stove, water heater, or car charger.

I reckon it'd be nice to have USB C PD ports everywhere I have a 220VAC power point, but 5 years ago that'd have been a USB type A port - and even now those'd be getting close to useless. We use a Type I (AS/NZS 2112) power point plug here - and that hasn't needed to change in probably a century. I doubt there's ever been a low voltage DC plug/socket standard that's lasted in use for anything like that long - probably the old "car cigarette lighter" 12DC thing? I'm glad I don't have a house full of those.

ericd 18 hours ago|||
Something to consider, and something I got a vivid demonstration of while playing with solar panels, DC arcs aren't self-extinguishing, unlike AC arcs. At one point I stuck a voltage probe in, and the arc stuck with it as I pulled the probe away. It also vaporized the metal tip of the probe.

My understanding is that DC breakers are somewhat prone to fires for this reason, too.

bigiain 18 hours ago|||
Heh - I vaporised a fairly large soldering iron tip (probably 4mm copper cylindrical bar?), when I fucked up soldering a connector to a big 7 cell ~6000mAHr LiPo battery and shorted the terminals. Quite how I didn't end up blind or in hospital I don't know. It reinforced just how much respect you need to pay to even low-ish voltage DC when the available current was likely able to exceed 700A by a fair margin momentarily. I think those cells were rated at 60C continuous and 120C for 5 seconds.
ericd 18 hours ago|||
heh man, I'm glad you got out of that easy, I definitely wore safety glasses 100% of the time after my experience. I think a lifetime of experience with dangerous wall outlets and harmless little 1.5V/9V DC cells teaches us the wrong lessons about DC safety. I've since heard stories of wrenches exploding when they fall across EV high voltage battery terminals. Wrenches aren't supposed to be explosive.

The electricians I was working with also told me stories about how with the really big breakers, you don't stand in front of it when you throw it, because sometimes it can turn into a cloud of molten metal vapor. And that's just using them as intended.

scheme271 18 hours ago|||
A bunch of those big breakers require two people. One person in a flash suit and another with a 2m long pole around the first person. That way if an arc flash happens, the second person can yank the first person to safety without also getting hurt.
pocksuppet 17 hours ago||
Why don't they use the pole to flip the breaker from 2m away?
defrost 17 hours ago||
Ruins the fun and interrupts instilling respect deep into the bones of interns.

Allegedly

While on "work experience" from high school I was put on washing power lines coming straight out of the local power station near the ocean - lots of salt buildups to clear.

Same deal, flashover suits and occasional arcs .. and much laughter from the ground operators who drifted the work bucket close.

bluGill 18 hours ago||||
Amps - the old 48vdc telco data centers vaporized wrenchs once in a while.
jacquesm 18 hours ago|||
Those harmless 9V DC cells can do a lot of damage if you use them right.
sobjornstad 6 hours ago||
This reminds me of the sailor who [decided](https://darwinawards.com/darwin/darwin1999-50.html) to measure his internal resistance by pushing probes through the skin on his thumbs and electrocuted himself with the 9V multimeter battery.
jacquesm 3 hours ago||
Mythbusters time. Salty fluids can be remarkably conductive. Blood qualifies. What's interesting though is that you have to wonder if there isn't some contributing factor here, as a kid I did this quite a few times, so that's one more for that list of stuff that could have killed me. At the same time: I didn't have nice insulation piercing tips back then (I do now) and that may be what saved me. I will definitely not try this again.

Another story in the same line is that I heard that a horse got killed by contact with a lantern battery, but I don't have any reference for that, just a story by a family member that collected coaches.

jacquesm 18 hours ago|||
You got super lucky.
bigiain 17 hours ago||
Yep. Super super lucky. I suspect my reading glasses are the only reason I can still see anything.
jacquesm 17 hours ago||
I have a couple of those narrow escapes one of which led me to put a significant chunk of Eastern Amsterdam out of power. Another involved Beryllium oxide. 9 lives are barely enough.
swamp_donkey 15 hours ago|||
Ah! Perhaps you are a member of the gigawatt club? Eligible for entry once you have accidentally tripped off 1000 MW of load or generation! No sweeping that under the table
jacquesm 10 hours ago||
I'm the idiot that sent a fairly high voltage spike into the grid setting off a cascade. Even years later I do not fully understand how it could happen, you'd think the grid would be low impedance enough to absorb a spike like that. But it set off a cascade on a part of the local grid that was known to be weak.
bigiain 17 hours ago|||
I would read that book...
jacquesm 16 hours ago||
'Stupid stuff I've done and survived'...
toast0 17 hours ago||||
> DC arcs aren't self-extinguishing, unlike AC arcs. At one point I stuck a voltage probe in, and the arc stuck with it as I pulled the probe away. It also vaporized the metal tip of the probe.

It would have self-extinguished if you waited long enough for the probe to vaporize.

KaiserPro 6 hours ago|||
> My understanding is that DC breakers are somewhat prone to fires for this reason, too.

I think its that DC breakers are more expensive, so people use AC rated breakers instead. They are both rated for 400v @10 amps, its the same thing right?

It turns out they are not, and most people, even electronics types rarely play with 200v+ of DC.

ericd 4 hours ago||
Yeah, I think this array was pushing 350-400V
bandrami 18 hours ago|||
I've worked overseas a lot and one thing that's really different from 2 decades ago is that I simply don't need a step-down transformer anymore because every single thing I plug in converts to DC (or otherwise accepts dual-voltage) anyways. So I have a giant collection of physical plug adapters because every device I use just needs to fit into the socket and takes care of it from there.

(My stand mixer is the lone sad exception)

747fulloftapes 15 hours ago||
Agreed!

I spent a few years getting flown out around the world to service gear at different datacenters. I learned to pack an IEC 60320 C14 to NEMA 5-15R adapter cable and a dumb, un-protected* NEMA 5-15R power strip. While on-site at the datacenters, an empty PDU receptacle was often easy to find. At hotels, I'd bring home a native cable borrowed from or given to me by the native datacenter staff or I'd ask the hotel front desk to borrow a "computer power cable," (more often, I'd just show them a photo) and they generally were able to lend me one. It worked great. I never found a power supply that wasn't content with 208 or 240V.

Example adapters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FD7PHB7Y or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IBIC1XG

*: Some fancier power strips with surge suppression have a MOV over-voltage varistor that may burn up if given 200V+, rendering the power strip useless. Hence, unprotected strips are necessary.

torginus 18 hours ago|||
I've had discussed with people familiar with the matter, and they convinced me its really not worth it for many reasons, the main one being safety - DC arcs are self sustaining - AC voltage constantly goes to zero, so if an arc were to form, it gets auto extinguished when the voltage drops. With DC this never happens, meaing every switch or plug socket can create this nice long arcs and is a potential fire hazard.
jacquesm 17 hours ago|||
The 'what is safer' question for DC and AC at the same effective current and power has a mixed set of answers depending on conditions. For instance, DC is more likely to cause your muscles to contact and not let go (bad), but AC is more likely to send your heart into ventricular fibrillation (sp?, also bad).

AC arcs are easier to extinguish than DC arcs, but DC will creep much easier than AC and so on.

From a personal point of view: I've worked enough with both up to about 1KV at appreciable power levels and much higher than that at reduced power. Up to 50V or so I'd rather work with DC than AC but they're not much different. Up to 400V or so above that I'd much rather have AC and above 400V the answer is 'neither' because you're in some kind of gray zone where creep is still low so you won't know something is amiss until it is too late. And above 1KV in normal settings (say, picture tubes in old small b&w tvs and higher up when they're color and larger) and it will throw you right across the room but you'll likely live because the currents are low.

HF HV... now that's a different matter and I'm very respectful of anything in that domain, and still have a burn from a Tronser trimmer more than 45 years after it happened. Note to self: keep eye on SWR meter/Spectrum analyzer and finger position while trimming large end stages.

Tempest1981 15 hours ago||
> DC will creep much easier than AC

Can you say more about "creep"? Is the resistance changing? Or is material actually migrating?

Also curious why it's worse using DC.

jacquesm 10 hours ago||
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/understanding-high-v...
Tempest1981 4 hours ago||
Thanks Jacques. So creepage is when current flows/arcs across the surface of an insulator, vs through the air. And it's worse with DC due to its unidirectional nature. Worsens when pollution builds up, or the surface degrades.
jacquesm 3 hours ago||
Indeed. And it's a really nasty thing to properly protect against because that pollution, especially with stuff that is unattended for a long time has a habit of ending up much worse than your worst fantasies. I've taken more than one electrocuted mouse out of the HV section of older color TVs for instance. Up to 250V or so it is manageable, above that you can get the weirdest problems including completely invisible arcing where the only giveaway is the ozone smell and the occasional click. Looking at HV circuitry in the dark or by putting a flame near a suspect spot is a great way to spot these kind of issues.
adiabatichottub 18 hours ago|||
Really depends on what we're talking about. A lot of electrical safety equipment has a DC rating, usually something like 90VDC/300VAC. Also, most DC equipment just isn't going to have the stored energy to generate a big arc. Well, except batteries, and we're already piling them all around us.
torginus 18 hours ago||
I mean it depends, but for dual rated stuff has both a voltage and current limit, both of which are way lower. Like typically a 230V/20A AC switch can switch 24VDC/2A. And the energy is not in the equipment, its in the mains (or batteries like you said, or PV panels)
adiabatichottub 17 hours ago||
Right, but that's why I mentioned safety equipment. Your common DIN-mount UL-489 branch circuit breaker will be rated for the same trip current, same short circuit current rating (SCCR), but lower voltage. So you can use the same wiring and breakers as you might have with AC and your 48V battery bank won't vaporize the $5 hardware store toggle switch that somehow became a shunt.
torginus 11 hours ago||
I mean, most AC circuit breakers use electromagnets to trip on overcurrent (as well as bimetallic strips using thermal methods for sustained high current).

Electromagnets dont work for DC, so your breaker will never trip. For thermal protection, you need current, so that checks out, and it would make sense for it to be rated under 50V as thats considered the highest voltage thats not life threatening on touch.

PV Batteries in general have a very high current (100s of A) at ~50Vish volts, so I dont think there's a major usecase for using household breakers for them.

Im still not getting your point BTW, switches and breakers are two separate things, with different workings, and household (and datacenter) DC would be I think around 400ish V, which is a bit higher than the peak voltage of AC, but still within the arc limits of household wiring (at least in 230V countries).

The advantage of DC is that you use your wiring more efficiently as the mean and peak wattage is the same at all times. Going with 48V would mean high resistive losses.

adiabatichottub 2 hours ago||
> Electromagnets dont work for DC, so your breaker will never trip.

If electromagnets don't work for DC then what am I supposed to do with this pile of DC solenoids and relays? ;)

> PV Batteries in general have a very high current (100s of A) at ~50Vish volts, so I dont think there's a major usecase for using household breakers for them.

That's what the SCCR rating is for. When there's a fault you're going to have a LOT of current flowing until your safety kicks in. Something like the grid or a battery bank will happily provide thousands of amps almost instantaneously. Breakers designed for protecting building wiring are rated for this. Now, most household breakers aren't dual DC/AC rated, but you can actually buy DC rated breakers that fit in a home panel (Square D QO series).

> Im still not getting your point BTW, switches and breakers are two separate things, with different workings, and household (and datacenter) DC would be I think around 400ish V, which is a bit higher than the peak voltage of AC, but still within the arc limits of household wiring (at least in 230V countries).

My point is that there isn't any material reason why DC can't be as safe as AC, all the proper safety equipment already exists. Extinguishing a DC arc during a fault is a solved problem for equipment at household scale.

> The advantage of DC is that you use your wiring more efficiently as the mean and peak wattage is the same at all times. Going with 48V would mean high resistive losses.

I just mentioned 48V because it's a common equipment voltage for household DC systems. 400V would be good for big motors and resistive heating loads.

Regarding DC vs AC and wiring efficiency, talking about mean vs peak wattage just confuses the issue. 1 volt DC is 1 volt RMS. It is an apples-to-apples comparison. If you want to say "we can use 170VDC or 120VAC with the same insulation withstand rating, and at lower current for the same power", then that is absolutely true. But your common 600V THHN building wire won't care if you're using 400V AC or DC, so it's mostly immaterial.

kccqzy 18 hours ago|||
That’s actually a recent phenomenon. Before the age of electronics most household appliances either worked with AC or DC equally well (like incandescent bulbs) or worked well with AC only given the technology at the time (think anything with a motor, fans, HVAC compressors etc).
analog31 18 hours ago||
Taking it to an extreme, the house I lived in while in grad school had wall lamp fixtures that doubled as electric and gas lamps. At some point I imagine it would have been possible to choose between using electric or gas by either flipping the switch or turning a valve. They said "Edison Patent" on them. We could have lit the house on AC, DC, or gas.

Thinking about the failure modes gave me the heebie jeebies, but the gas had been disconnected ages prior.

jazzyjackson 17 hours ago|||
It’s kind of fun that light switches predate electricity. I think you used to turn a key, I guess you were turning a valve? Now that I think of it using a key to operate a valve makes a lot of sense but you don’t see it too often, well, I guess you want to turn things off without needing to find a key…
eszed 13 hours ago|||
I lived in a 19th century house in San Francisco that had gorgeous plaster work medallions on the ceilings - think cherubs and fruits - in the middle of which were the light fixtures. One day my dumb-ass flatmate made an ill-advised attempt to DIY his light fixture and cracked the still-active gas line embedded in the ceiling. Sometime in the 1920s - the date was printed on a sticker in the electrical panel - when they electrified the house, they'd wrapped the electrical wires around the gas pipes, and left them otherwise in situ. Crazy stuff.
jwilliams 18 hours ago|||
There are niches where DC makes sense - low-voltage lighting, USB/LED ecosystems.

Once you get into higher power (laptops and up), switching and distribution get harder, so the advantages fade.

For bigger appliances (fridge, etc), AC is fine + practical.

adiabatichottub 18 hours ago||
Your modern fridge is probably going to have an inverter-driven motor, so you're right back to using DC.
adrr 17 hours ago||
All modern appliances and HVACs are using inverter drive motors for efficiency. Brushless DC motors are more efficient though.
userbinator 17 hours ago||
"Brushless DC motors" are actually just AC synchronous motors.
flowerthoughts 15 hours ago|||
I'm renovating a house, and have been considering 24V or 48V DC outlets in a few rooms. Semiconductors become more expensive above ~32V, so 24V might be the sweetspot.

However, there's also PoE (24 or 48V!), so maybe that's the right approach. It's not like each outlet is going to run a heater anyway.

fc417fc802 12 hours ago||
Lower voltage makes voltage drop across the line proportionally worse. Depending on the purpose PoE is probably the way to go since the wiring and hardware is all standardized and safety certified.

Unless you mean running AC and installing inverters in the wall? What is this even for? All my electronics are DC but critically they all require different voltages. The only thing I might benefit from would be higher voltage service because there are times that 15 A at 120 V doesn't cut it.

epx 18 hours ago|||
Having a single big DC converter at a home would help a lot with power factor (LED lamps connected directly to AC have terrible power factor).
Mistletoe 18 hours ago||
Modern bricks really aren’t that inefficient though. An Apple charger is like 90% efficient. A DC to DC converter is about that efficient or worse.
catlikesshrimp 17 hours ago||
The power adapters became so efficient that we have to transition to wireless charging to keep it down

The irony...

gwbas1c 7 hours ago||
Anyone notice that 400V and 800V are also used in EV battery architecture? I wonder if there's any sharing of technology?
sghiassy 19 hours ago||
I’ve always wondered about these new High-Voltage DC (HVDC) transmission lines.

I always thought AC’s primary benefit was its transmission efficiency??

Would love to learn if anyone knows more about this

adgjlsfhk1 18 hours ago||
AC is less efficient than DC at a given voltage. The advantage of AC is that voltage switching is cheap, easy and efficient. Switching DC voltage is way harder, more expensive, and less efficient. However the switching costs are O(1) and the transmission losses are O(n) so for some distance (currently somewhere around 500 km) it's worth paying the switching cost to get super high voltage DC. The big thing that's changed in the last ~30 years is a ton of research into high voltage transistors, and fast enough computers to do computer controlled mhz switching of giant high power transistors. These new super fancy switching technologies brought the switching costs down from ludicrous to annoyingly high.
arijun 18 hours ago||
> AC is less efficient than DC at a given voltage

To expand on this, a given power line can only take a set maximum current and voltage before it becomes a problem. DC can stay at this maximum voltage constantly, while AC spends time going to zero voltage and back, so it's delivering less power on the same line.

adiabatichottub 16 hours ago|||
Maybe if by "same voltage" we mean DC voltage the same as AC peak voltage. When we talk about AC voltage we are referring to root-mean-square (RMS) voltage. It's kind of like saying the average, though for math reasons the average of an unbiased sine wave is 0. Anyhooo, 1 VRMS into a load will produce the same power as 1VDC. If AC delivered less power than DC at the same voltage then life would be very confusing.
manwe150 17 hours ago||||
That’s true, but my understanding is the main contributor is skin effect, since AC travels only on the surface of the wire, while DC uses the whole area, resulting in lower resistance loss (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin_effect)
adgjlsfhk1 17 hours ago|||
this iirc is the smallest of 3 problems. the other 2 are skin effect (AC wires only store power on the outside of the wire) and capacitive effects (a write running parallel to the ground is a capacitor and AC current is equivalent to constantly charging and discharging the capacitor)
cogman10 18 hours ago|||
The primary benefit of AC is it's really easy to change the voltage of AC up or down.

The transmission efficiency of AC comes from the fact that you can pretty trivially make a 1 megavolt AC line. The higher the voltage, the lower the current has to be to provide the same amount of power. And lower current means less power in line loss due to how electricity be.

But that really is the only advantage of AC. DC at the same voltage as AC will ultimately be more efficient, especially if it's humid or the line is underwater. Due to how electricy be, a change in the current of a line will induce a current into conductive materials. A portion of AC power is being drained simply by the fact that the current on the line is constantly alternating. DC doesn't alternate, so it doesn't ever lose power from that alternation.

Another key benefit of DC is can work to bridge grids. The thing causing a problem with grids being interconnected is entirely due to the nature of AC power. AC has a frequency and a phase. If two grids don't share a frequency (happens in the EU) or a phase (happens everywhere, particularly the grids in the US) they cannot be connected. Otherwise the power generators end up fighting each other rather than providing power to a load.

In short, AC won because it it was cheap and easy to make high voltage AC. DC is comming back because it's only somewhat recently been affordable to make similar transformations on DC from High to low and low to high voltages. DC carries further benefits that AC does not.

prezk 18 hours ago|||
Important factor is that AC at given nominal voltage V swings between 1.41V and -1.41V, so it requires let's say 40% better/thicker insulation than the equivalent V volts DC line. This is OK for overhead lines (just space the wires more) but is a pain for buried or undersea transmission lines; for that reason, they tend to use DC nowadays.

BTW, megavolt DC DC converters are a sign to behold: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pole_2_Thyristor_Valve.jp...

topspin 17 hours ago|||
> I always thought AC’s primary benefit was its transmission efficiency??

There are many factors involved, and "efficiency" is only one. Cost is the real driver, as with everything.

AC is effective when you need to step down frequently. Think transformers on poles everywhere. Stepping down AC using transformers means you can use smaller, cheaper conductors to get from high voltage transmission, lower voltage distribution and, finally lower voltage consumers. Without this, you need massive conductors and/or high voltages and all the costs that go with them.

AC is less effective, for instance, when transmitting high power over long, uninterrupted distances or feeding high density DC loads. Here, the reactive[1] power penalty of AC begins to dominate. This is a far less common problem, and so "Tesla won" is the widely held mental shortcut. Physics doesn't care, however; the DC case remains and is applied when necessary to reduce cost.

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_reactance

cjbgkagh 19 hours ago||
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-voltage_direct_current
everdrive 4 hours ago|
"How can we turn this technical story into a story about people and their conflicts?"
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