Posted by scottjg 1 day ago
Their ESP also uses Secure Boot... I don't know that there isn't a way to break in, but I wasn't able to find one short of hardware notification :/
Suddenly there are so many products to play with that would have previously been undesirable! This is one of the good things AI has enabled.
God forbid our fans, our fans of all things, might be broken of their dependencies on the internet. The plebians can't be allowed to do that. Every relay must be cloud-connected so it can be monetized and disabled for whatever dumb ass reasons someone might want to disable it.
I hear this a lot but I've never hit this.
For weeks now I've been working on a shared recompilation project of Switch 1 and 2 games, and Opus 5.5 has handled that with no issue.
Over 10 supported Switch 1 games, and 3 supported Switch 2 games, and never once has Opus 5.5 denied anything
Opus 5.5 will absolutely refuse to touch anti-cheat systems in video games, even when the end game isn't to cheat but to work on Linux compatibility or to bypass/spoof the checks to enable gameplay.
Mistral, QWEN, and other models (read non-American) tend to have little to no restrictions. There were some tasks where I was actively trying to sabotage my own local network and Mistral had no issue helping. Anthropic and OpenAI refused outright or had to be "convinced" but would often hit further barricades along the way.
So this only works on products that was developed before ~now.
The solution is to not buy crap regardless if you can make it work or not.
You're under the assumption that the companies producing these give a shit about security. It'll probably increase a bit but I doubt it will be by much. If they have shipped devices that leave the doors wide open for almost any intrusion, they won't invest engineering/AI time and money to make these better than before and certainly won't review the code that the model spit out beyond a quick check if the promised base functionality still works.
The Home Assistant hackers are some of the most persistent reverse engineers that I have seen. Almost as much as game crackers and cheat developers.
The air purifier market is full of garbage because consumers don't understand how these products work or what their tradeoffs are.
The root problem is that these products are designed the wrong way around. They almost all use custom-fit HEPA filters. That sounds great, HEPA is good, right? Except HEPA is really not good for household air filtering. HEPA is so fine that even air struggles to move through it. It's also far more fine than the common contaminants (dust and pollen) need. Because it's so fine, you need a VERY powerful fan to move any air through it, which means the purifier will be very loud.
Finer filters are not better. There are two things you want to optimize for:
1: CADR - clean air delivery rate. This is essentially how much air you can move through the filter per hour, multiplied by how much of the contaminant you can catch each time that air passes through the filter.
2: Volume - It doesn't matter how amazing your air purifier is if it sounds like a tornado. If you only run it for a few minutes before getting annoyed, the purifier is not doing its job. Every moment it is OFF it is not doing its job. Many purifiers try to use sensors to determine when to run the filter, but this fundamentally a flawed approach and just means you have low quality air 99% of the time.
The solution to these problem is a less-fine filter. For dust and pollen, something like MERV13/14 is absolutely fine. It will catch most of those on each pass, and because air moves through it so much easier - you can run the same air through it many times more in the same period of time. This results in an air purifier that is whisper quiet, keeps the air far cleaner, and can use off-the-shelf furnace air filters that are VERY cheap compared to custom-fit HEPAs which may stop being made the moment that purifier product line inevitably ceases to exist. (Note: This is mainly true in the US, said filters are harder to find elsewhere)
Combine MERV13/14 with off-the-shelf PC case fans (which have been optimized for decades to be as quiet and long-lasting as possible) and the result is an easily-maintainable, quiet, highly-effective purifier.
NOTE: People dealing with VOCs/odors need an entirely different approach that HEPA won't really solve either, for that you need activated charcoal which will run out almost instantly in the amounts common purifiers come with. You need a gigantic block of the stuff to last more than a month or two.
I'm confused by your dust and pollen comment. What about PM2.5, is this mostly dust or are you not that concerned about this vs dust?
Because it's so fine, you need a VERY powerful
fan to move any air through it, which means the
purifier will be very loud.
"For a purifier of its capabilities, the Mighty is notably quiet" - https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-air-purifier...
Alternatively, just take a glance at the ~30K reviews on Amazon. - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01728NLRG
It doesn't matter how amazing your air purifier is if it
sounds like a tornado. If you only run it for a few minutes
before getting annoyed, the purifier is not doing its job.
Combine MERV13/14 with off-the-shelf PC case fans (which
have been optimized for decades to be as quiet and long-lasting
as possible) and the result is an easily-maintainable, quiet,
highly-effective purifier.
For a given CFM, with all other things being equal, larger fans (like the ones in Coways) are going to be easier than a bunch of smaller fans. Though, if using an array of Noctuas or similar, I'm sure it could be done.
Many purifiers try to use sensors to determine when to
run the filter, but this fundamentally a flawed approach
and just means you have low quality air 99% of the time.
The solution to these problem is a less-fine filter. For dust and
pollen, something like MERV13/14 is absolutely fine.
off-the-shelf furnace air filters that are VERY cheap compared to
custom-fit HEPAs which may stop being made the moment that purifier
product line inevitably ceases to exist.
But have you actually taken 30 seconds to look on Amazon and noticed the dozens of third-party filters made to fit the Coways? It's like buying Bose headphones. Yeah, you'll need to replace the earpads eventually, but they've been using the same earpads for like 15 years and there's an ecosystem of cheap 3rd-party versions... not 100% ideal, but also not a problem. As you note, maybe the situation's different outside of the US.
I'm going to guess that you will spend more money on this than just buying a light that has smart features compatible with your smart home ecosystem. You can't mix two smart systems on one cord - this has never worked. Where to put the smart is a tricky question as there are pros and cons to every answer, but in general the smarts need to be in exactly one place or things won't work.
The relay clicking is a feature so you can tell the brightness audibly :)